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LM386 Amplifier Video update

Few months back I have made small LM386 Amplifier and failed to post video due to music copyright laws. Now that I managed to find a song that is legal to use it in youtube videos I have refilmed and reuploaded video to my channel.

Feel free to view and comment it: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bqYsrr9iGoY

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Bed LED lightning 1.0

With idea to equip my bed with LED lights I came up last year on my honeymoon while staying in one beautifull hotel. There are many parts of “pimping” my bed but today I will present just the first one.

In our room we dont have smooth wall which also helped with desireble light effect. We chose orange LED not super bright ones. Orange one is bit relaxing compared to others.

In first part of this project I installed LED’s on top of bed’s headrest pointing up towards sealing. Beacuse of close proximity of wall there is nice spread of light. I drilled 4 holes on top and 4 holes from back for cable connection.

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LED’s were insterted into special LED holder, I had plastic and aluminium at spare and chose aluminium one because of surface smoothness. With that under the LED comes small plastic holder which helps with cable managment and LED not moving inside the holder.

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I realize that I should use colored cables for positive and negative but I ran out of blue, red, black and white cable for this procjet, that is the reason why two LED’s have all black cables. But to help my self to orientate I have used red and black shrink tube on both ends of LED’s.

I also had to cut small piece of protoboard for power source and LED connector. I have used my lovely Dremel which came handy every time I needed it.

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Installing LED holder into drilled holes and pulling out cables trough bottom hole

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To mount wires to one place witohut moving I have glued them with hot glue gun verticaly and horizontaly across whole length of wires.

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And last the small board on which is connection pins for LED’s and powersource. That is also glued to backside of bad with hot glue.

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Final result with light switched on inside room:

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And final result with all light off in room. In reality light emitted from LED’s is orange but on pictures it came little bit yellow:

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For turning the LED’s on at the moment I am just using direct plug in wall adapter but in project Bed 2.0 I will either install close proximity sensor on each side of bed or laser “trip wire” sensor which I have allready made. If you have any comments or suggestions feel free to ask or email me.

High Powered Piranha LED Flashlight

Recently I was working around LED’s and therir diferrences, with that I have also posted topic about comparing Pirahna FLUX LED’s with normal 5mm high brightness ones. That comparison gave me an idea to create small Flashlight with Piranha LED’s.  At first I wanted to make it portable but problem I encountered is powersource.  Due to that fact for startes I have created non portable but moving LED flashlight. I was preety amazed how much power this little combination can give.

For Project I have used small black box with screwed top on one side. On one side i have cutted out square piece and fitted small plexiglass from within for protection due to heat. On top of it I have mounted flip switch for turning flashlight on and off and on bottom normal powerjack input for wall adapter.

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I have used 16 cold white high output Piranha FLUX LED’s with four pin on each all paralled connected trough dedicated resistors for each LED. I had to use aditional positive wires to top of the rows due to lack of power with just one trace.

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All LED’s are conected via +5V voltage regulator which is glued to dedicated heatsink. I must say that even with that heatsink on whole back of case becomes very very hot after 10 min of constant use.

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And for final here are results of brightness of that device in lid space and complete dark space. First pictures of flashlight working in lid space with 130W lightbulb.

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Pictures of fleshlight turned on in completly dark room.

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Hope you liked this little procjet and if you have any ideas how to make this flashlight portable and with less heat dissapating feel free to leave a comment or send me an e-mail.

 

Review: Dremel 3000

Today I have bought an electrical multitool Dremel 3000. It is designed for various use in different fields like electornics, metal industry, wood carving, grinding and polishing various items. I have bought Dremel 3000 kit wich came with little extender hand tool and small asortiment of various bits and pieces.

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I bought it from Conrad Conrad Austria for which I have paid 69€ and for additional 100 piece kit of extra pieaces I have paid 29€ in total it came 98€.

Opening the main box first we stumble uppon gray hard plastic case with handle for carrying. Inside it is tightly packed except of small extention tool which is very hard to lock in position without falling down while closing case.

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Small assortiment of selected acessories in main box. It contains some polishing pads with polishing paste, small wrench for mounting evrything to Dremel 3000, cutting and grinding stones with and without Speed Click system which is very handy.

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Total size of main Dremel 3000 tool is not that big atlest for my hands, it feels very comftarble in my hands. It is not that heavy either and without major vibrations while in use.

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Additional accesories kit came with same asortiment of tools as main Dremel kit just in greater number.

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Now to the actual review of Dremel 3000 multitool:

As my first tool I am very happy with it. Main main use of it is for electronics and some furniture modifications. That is also why I have selected general acessories kit instead of other specific kits like polishing kit or engraving kit.

Tool has speed regulations between 5.000 and 33.000 rpm which is quite handy for different usage. On actual tool it is has sliding knob with speed settings OFF, 2, 4, 6, 8, 10.

What I have noticed is that on speed 2 which I belive it is 5.000rpm actual speed varies which can be problem in some delicate works. It can be heard very clear that it cannot maintain constant speed and goes up and down non stop. On other speed settings it is not noticable.

From tools I have tested only cutting pad, grinding pads and engraving bit. Cutting pad for steel if I can say it cames equipped with Speed Click system. This system doesn’t have normal screw in part like others, instead it has special mechanism which you pull down, place your pad rotate it and release mechanism so it clamps the pad from under.

I must say that comparing Speed Click and normal way of mounting pads, Speed Click it is definetly faster.

More than that I cannot really say since I havent really used it that much, but I know I wont regreat that buy. It is cheap but great electrical multitool with wide range of use and wide range of optional acessories for mounting, handling and bits to it.

If you have any questions or suggestions about Dremel 3000 multitool feel free to ask in comment box or by e-mail.

 

Audio: LM386 Amplifier

After some time and playing around with my Onkyo Integra amplifier I have decided to start my own little series about beginner amplification. Where to start better then with small LM386 chip which deliver’s of about 0.5W audio power.

LM386 is good for powering headphones or some smaller speakers for portable music players.

Link to my video demonstration of this project: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bqYsrr9iGoY

Here is direct link to PDF for LM386 from NT: http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/lm386.pdf

LM386 is capable of opereting in voltage range from 4-12V and 5-18V in my case I am using simple 9V battery for demonstration. Voltage gain of this chip is from 20 to 200 depending on components and wireing sequence.

It is very simple to build it and with very little components. In my build I have used 3 capacitors some wires and LM386 chip. I must admit I have made mistake of not putting resistors in series with my speakers due to testing and not finalizing project.

Here are some photos of finished product, feel free to ask any questions regarding this build.

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shema

 

 

Teardown: Digital Camera Canon PowerShot

To continue previous teardown of older analog camera, this time I am posting teardown of an digital camera. In my case it is Canon PowerShot S1 which at time that was bought costed me about 500€. I must say it was quite nice adventure to see what is inside. All was packed and secured with probably 50 screws if not more.

To start teardown I will first post picture of fully assembled camera:

 

 

 

Part where speaker is mounted:

 

 

Back side taken apart which uncovers big copper heatshield inside some sort of plastic wrap.

 

 

Lifting copper shield up shows mainboard

 

 

Under mainboard there is sensor circuit and under that whole lens system lays. On left side flash capacitor rated at 300V is shown next to it eye sight which has small LCD inside which shows actual picture infront of camera:

 

 

Little board with all the connections:

 

 

Both side of main board which uncovers first series of DIGIC image processors from Canon:

 

 

LCD which can rotate around Y axis and move on X axis:

 

 

Memory SD card slot which was on right side of camera.

 

 

Front lens with evrything still inside it:

 

 

Actual image sensor which was hidden behind all those lenses:

 

 

Weird motor and gearbox for moving lenses:

 

 

Lens system taken apart:

 

 

Look of front iris trough one of lenses so I could make close up:

 

 

Back curtain which is made from only two blades:

 

 

Lens with image stabilization and actual magnets with some weird metal balls in center:

 

 

 

Inside of guts of  camera and show of little solenoid for poping up flash unit:

 

 

Hope you enjoyed this little teardown and saw something new. For me biggest surprise was solenoid for activating flash for poping up. Beside that little lcd unit inside eyepiece was also quite interesting thing to see. I just have to figure out how to activate it if it is still working.

 

 

Teardown: Analog Film Camera

After a longer break here comes yet another small teardown of “antique” technology if we may call it like that. It is device that made memories possible to be eternal.

In this topic I will not comment much since there is nothing much to say. You can see in details, flash circuit, iris mechanism, shell and wiring of all components together.

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A look trough front lens of Analog camera.

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Teardown: Texas Instruments Extensa Laptop

After shorter period of vacation I have returned back home. Straight of I will start with posting a teardown of “ancient” laptop made by Texas Instruments. This beast is powered by x486 100MHz processor and whooping 8MB of RAM 🙂

Biggest surprise to me was rechargeble battery from Duracell, just wait and you will see on photos what I am talking about.

Let’s start with actual teardown:

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Battery I was talking about. Specs are 10.5V NiMh, but Ah it is not specified. Sadly battery is dead so I cannot measure it or use it.

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Diskette reader/writter for 3.5″ diskettes.

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Hard disk which is close to if not exactly the same size as modern disks with plates inside. 540MB had to be enormous in time when this laptop was released, but today sadly it cannot satisfy needs of individual.

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Detatched keyboard from laptop, it is pretty slim in my opinion.

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First sight of what is under keyboard. You can see small metal heatsink for processor. Under that is some sort of thick copper tape, I have no clue what was that used to protect.

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Taking motherboard out you are left with plastic shell and monitor.

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Closer look of what was hiding under the metal heat sink. You can spot 100MHz processor on which is also Windows compatible logo 🙂

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Some manual soldiering of jump wires afterwards when motherboard was allready assembled, guess the forgot something or found better solution for problem they faced.

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Memory slot and memory itself. Wonder what could we used 8MB of memory today:D Probably you couldn’t watch this blog in high def pictures 🙂

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Hope you all enjoyed this little teardown post, I have prepared some more in near future, pictures are allready taken I just need time to post everything here. Feel free to click “Follow Blog” so you can stay in track what is happening here.

My youtube channel also has some interesting things and many more to come.

Vacation and future posts

Hello fellow readers and followers.

 

I would like to inform you that for the next two weeks there will be no new posts due to for me goning on yearly vacation. But I will tell you what I will post when I come back.

Since my mail came and I recived items I have needed to start learning PIC programming there will be some tutorials in PIC programming in C language.

With that there will be detailed LED training video describing all important things related to LED.

Review of one reall cheap multimeter I got for 6 euros and it has also continuity mode on it go figure it out if it will work or not 🙂

Hope you will find topics interesting enough to conutinuely follow my blog and all posts on it.

See you in two week,

Elvis

 

LED: Piranha Super-Flux vs 5mm

I was searching on the internet for any actual LED test between Piranha Super-Flux and normal 5mm High Brightness one but I couldn’t find any. For my future project I had to order some LED’s and with that I took the liberty to order some of the Piranha Super-Flux LED’s which supposedly should deliver more light.

For actual test I have used two 5mm high brightness LED’s and two Piranha Super-Flux. All four are cold white color except one Piranha is warm white.

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LED’s came from website http://www.hebeiltd.com.cn which they have quite low prices compared to others, only catch is if you buy low quantity they charge you “penalty” for that.

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For input voltage and current refer to the picture above, lettering in the RED provides that data

LED specifications:

#1 – 5mm High Brightness Cold White:
Color temperature: 6.000 – 12.000K
Operating current: 20mA
Operating voltage 3.2V – 3.6V
Viewing angle: 13°- 17°
Brightness: 12.000mcd – 18.000mcd

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#2 – Piranha Super-Flux Warm White:
Color temperature: 3.000K
Operating current: 30mA – 50mA
Operating voltage: 3.3V – 3.8V
Viewing angle: 35° – 40°
Brightness: 7.000mcd – 12.000mcd

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#3 – Piranha Super-Flux Cold White
Color temperature: 6.000K – 12.000K
Operating current: 30mA – 50mA
Operating voltage: 3.3V – 3.8V
Viewing angle: 35°- 40°
Brightness: 7.000mcd – 12.000mcd

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#4 – 5mm High brightness
No Data

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All LED’s are on breadboard with 5V Voltage regulator on input. Power source is 9V battery and each LED has dedicated resistor to come as close as possible to max potential.

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For a video review visit my youtube channel or direct video link, and don’t forget to rate video and subscribe to my channel for more videos in future.

My Youtube channel: http://www.youtube.com/user/ElectroElvisBlog?feature=mhee
Direct Video link: http://youtu.be/g7OtLVk5yiU